Its fare takes diners on a tour of Asturias, its crossroads, the eateries known as "casas de comidas" run by the stewmistresses, resolute, free-thinking women who are the guardians of the tastes and knowledge of generations in their spoon-eaten fare. The way they still do at El Llar de Viri.

And with her, with Elvira (Viri) Fernández - a creative, enterprising, modern "guisandera" - we will again move along those paths of gastronomy, maintaining the essence that constitutes the future.